Guanajuato, Mexico

If you were to throw a dart at a map of Mexico, the town of Guanajuato would be the bull's eye. At the geographic center of the country, it earns high points as a vibrant and friendly destination offering more of what Mexico is all about than its sister city of San Miguel de Allende to the east, or its coastal resort cousins to the west.

I traveled to Guanajuato after attending a relative's wedding in a nearby city. Lured by the temperate mountain climate (6,500 feet above sea level), I sought a lively, eclectic locale yet to be invaded by condos, Starbucks and Winnebagos. And though I couldn't describe it is undiscovered by tourists, Guanajuato is large enough and unique enough to have retained its true Mexican character.

You enter the town proper though one of several underground thoroughfares, once used as waterways to shunt the Guanajuato River. Its narrow streets tangle like spaghetti though dramatic gorges, reaching up steep mountainsides like tiny fingers. With old cobblestone walkways as a backdrop, brightly colored buildings cling perilously to canyon walls as the townspeople go about their day-to-day chores seemingly immune to the breathtaking landscape that surrounds them.

At its heart sits Universidad de Guanajuato, a lovely campus that draws full-time and exchange students from all over the world. The prevalence of young people contributes to the town's vibrant and diverse atmosphere. It seems as though Internet cafes, book stores, and coffee shops can be found on every corner.

A half-dozen small hotels are tucked into the tiny neighborhoods and narrow streets circling the town center. Arguably the two most picturesque are the Hotel Posada Santa Fe and Hotel Luna (both around $80 US) which sit right on the pretty Jardín de la Unión, surrounded by restaurants and shaded by Indian laurel trees. It is a wonderful square in the social heart of the city where locals chat and romantics dance to mariachis. Within a short walk a half dozen smaller parks can be found, each surrounded by their own neighborhood shops, restaurants and cafes. For the more adventurous (and economical) traveler, I'd consider Casa Carcamanes (10 Plazuela Carcamanes), where just over $20 US gets you a large balcony room with a private bath, and a full breakfast in the Cafe Carcamanes just downstairs.

You'll find everything from Chinese to Pizza within a stone's throw of the town square, including the loyal mainstay, Casa Valdez, right on the Jardín de la Unión. It has a reputation for good food at reasonable prices. However, some of the lesser known restaurants are worth a short evening stroll to seek out. La Capellina at Sopena # 3 is perfect for a romantic evening, as is my favorite, El Abue - a hidden gem at 14 Plaza de San Jose. For Italian, Romanos Restaurant at Hernandez Macias #93 is said to be the most authentic in all of Mexico.

Guanajuato is a mere 30 minutes from Leon's Del Bajio International Airport - easily accessible by car, bus or taxi.

SPECIAL NOTE: Make certain to visit Mercado Hidalgo, the huge indoor marketplace where you'll find clothing, crafts, and wonderfully authentic food. Formerly a bullfighting ring, the Mercado provides a safe and fun detour during your trip.

SAFETY RATING: ****

Aside from the ever-present petty thefts, Guanajuato is a safe place to vacation. Plenty of visible law enforcement and lots of friendly people are around to help if you get lost. Use common sense and do your exploring of isolated areas during the day and with another traveler. The greatest safety concern is when crossing or walking next to the narrow streets. Use caution and keep aware of your surroundings and you'll enjoy all that Guanajuato has to offer.

San Miguel de Allende, Mexico

If I were the type of person who goes on first impressions I would have probably ordered the driver back to the airport long before arriving at San Miguel de Allende. And I would have missed one of the truly wonderful vacation spots in all of Mexico.

The two lane road from the airport in Leon was treacherous at times, intensified by multiple car passings that amounted to something between a game of roadway chicken and liars dice. Irregular fields of corn, weeds, and cacti spanned all the way to faded blue mountain ranges far to the north. A hodgepodge of electrical lines crossed back and forth over the highway as if there was no thought given to where to place the next power pole.

The lifeless landscape was dotted with small towns - outposts, really. Their unfinished cinderblock and rebar buildings bore the signature style of which I have become accustom during my travels to rural Mexico. That is, until we crossed a bridge and circled around Lake Ignacio, introducing me to my destination.

The picturesque town is laid out around a lively town square or Jardin, full of quaint shops, a bank, and inviting restaurants. Within a few blocks of the San Miguel’s center you’ll find everything from car and motorcycle rentals to outstanding boutique hotels. Exploring the side streets to find these hidden gems is part of the town’s charm.

San Miguel boasts several beautiful churches, the most well-known of which is probably La Parroquia, Church of St. Michael the Archangel. It’s pink colonial spires reach high into the sky above the Jardin and its bells echo melodically over the building tops.

Contact Addresses

Secretaia de Turismo (SECTUR), San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato, Mexico

Tel: (415) 152 0900

Website: www.sanmiguelguide.com

SPECIAL NOTE: One of the most striking features of San Miguel are the heavy wooden doors to the faceless buildings that line its narrow streets. Behind them you’ll find some of the most breathtaking haciendas in the world. Many of these can be rented for group or family vacations, and often includes housekeepers and cooks!

Safety Rating: *****

San Miguel de Allende is a very safe town with very few safety or security concerns. It's difficult to imagine a place so deep in Mexico, but offering all the conveniences of a modern U.S. city -- but San Miguel does just that. Traveling on the roads to and from it may be your greatest challenge, and the biggest threat to your safety. Take your time and/or hire a decent driver.

The Baja Coast

This is an area of Mexico that I'd always wanted to visit, but I wasn't feeling the love for the big resorts of Cabo San Lucas. For that reason I chose to begin my journey in the older (and slower paced) San Jose del Cabo. I ducked in to a little hotel on the main Avenue Zaragoza and was given the choice of a basement room for $9 US or a top floor room with a deck for two dollars more. I splurged and found myself enjoying a cold beer and a beautiful sunset over the town from my semi-private veranda. Directly across the street was the town's historic church and town square. I feasted on a nice Italian meal at La Dolce Restaurant where I watched the townspeople mingle in the square while I ate. The town was safe and had a definite wholesome feel to it - though it was Sunday night and I might have been influenced by the church services.

From there I set out by bus to the Pacific coast town of Todos Santos. It is a growing artist colony said to derive some of its fame from the Hotel California - allegedly the subject of the Eagle's song of the same name. The emergence of a number of good restaurants and high end B&B's is beginning to reflect in the local prices. Still, the town is safe, interesting, and well worth the visit.

After a couple of days I continued on a zig-zagging course to the city of La Paz where I spent the night in a bus terminal awaiting my connecting ride. La Paz is a large coastal city, and though it offers everything you'd need I had to make my way through some dicy neighborhoods that I wouldn't recommend. I finally caught my transfer and worked my way up HWY 1 past nearly a dozen pristine, white-sand beaches. These places are a favorite of Americans in RV's, yet you can still find spots were you'll have the whole beach to yourself. For a mere $6 US you can camp right on the sand under a thatched palapa.

I ended my journey in the town of Mulege, a mostly fruit-growing community. The sweet-smelling orchards are irrigated by a river that the town takes its name from. It was a relaxing stopover before my long bus ride home.

Safety Rating: ***

Since my trip took in several different towns, the security issues ranged from significant (La Paz) to almost nil (Todos Santos). Overall, I'd have to give the Baja Coast good marks for low crime, but the remoteness and danger posed by water and treacherous roads dropped the safety rating to three stars.